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Picturing perfect memories in Canada's desert

Oasis town of Osoyoos tries its best to be as pet and family-friendly as possible

Heading due east on the Crowsnest Highway, sandwiched and shadowed on both sides by intimidating 100foot fir trees, it's hard to imagine Canada's only desert is a matter of two hours away.

With the family, dog included, packed safely into the car, the adventure continued east of Princeton and, within a few miles, the deep dark green roadside hews were fading fast.

As more and more sunlight pierced through the thinning and previously dominant firs, the trees eventually morphed into the glorious orchards that put the Okanagan Valley on the international map.

It's not surprising then that the next town of Keremeos is fresh fruit central - the Vegas Strip of fresh fruit heaven. Apples, peaches, cherries, it's all there and plucked right off the tree.

Still plowing an eastward course, the abundant orchards trickled away as the road slides up and over the dusty and now very much desert brush hills to reveal the oasis of Osoyoos Lake and town.

Continuing down the hill, we smacked into the lake and our home for the next five days - the apparently latest, greatest thing to hit Osoyoos, the Watermark Beach Resort, a 153-suite, four-storey facility, which also has 30 beachfront townhomes.

Having got up at the crack of dawn for the six-hour roadtrip, we were super early for our pet-friendly suite, so we settled for the nearest off-leash dog beach (little Hershey was champing at the bit to test the reputed warm waters of the south Okanagan).

Unfortunately, the beautiful sandy beach and grass on Watermark's doorstep is off-limits for dogs, even on-leash.

Dogs are allowed on-leash on the paved boardwalk that lines the main beach, but watch out for the city bylaw officer roaming and ready to pounce.

After getting into our ground floor poolside family suite in Watermark, we were beginning a see why the three-year-old resort has quickly built up a reputation as being "the" place to go in Osoyoos.

A sleek L-shaped outdoor heated pool, only five feet at the deep end, comes complete with a waterslide and, as enjoyable as the pool area is, the glorious view it boasts over the pristine beach and lake simply adds another luxurious layer to the Watermark experience.

When you do venture outside the stone dyke walls of Watermark and travel the 10 yards onto the sandy beach, there's a great diving dock and roped swim area to protect you from the many boats and jet skis whipping up and down the lake.

Most evenings, if we weren't in the pool yet again, we'd be out on our suite's deck with a glass of one of the amazing local wines and allowing the gentle lake breeze to brush our faces.

We had both a pool and lake view, a little green space to walk the dog and the boardwalk was just 20 yards away when she needed a proper stretch.

There wasn't much reason to stay in our two-bedroomed suite, sleeping aside. But when we needed a break from the regular 30 plus-degree heat, the room was extremely clean and crisp, homey, trimmed with modern appliances and laced with luxury bedding and bathrooms.

A wine bar and fine-dining outdoor bistro also nestles behind the pool area and is well worth your attention if you choose Watermark.

Not just because its patio's serenic backdrop is framed by the lake and the rugged desert hills. But also their chef, Jonas Stadtlander, a recent addition to the resort, has worked in some of the world's top restaurants. Stadtlander leans on the region's incredible wealth of quality homegrown produce, much of it organic, to weave into his menu.

There's not much that can top enjoying a fine dinner outdoors, knowing the wine passing over your lips and the cuisine melting in your mouth is grown from the very hills and fields that surround the restaurant.

It's difficult to pick holes in the Watermark "experience," as they call it. And with it being one of the more expensive resorts in the south Okanagan, you shouldn't really be finding too much at fault.

But having stayed in many five-star hotels and resorts, some of which have failed to live up to their billing and are well over-priced, Watermark is relatively good value and ticks all the boxes for a relaxing and luxurious week away from city life.

When it was suggested we partake of a farm tour near the town of Oliver, about 30 minutes north of Osoyoos, I admit, my face squinted a little to the east.

But Covert Farms was very dog-friendly and, with this vacation's focus being on the dog for a change, I remembered that it wasn't all about us!

Perched up the hill above Oliver and nestled in the valley in the shadow of "The Giant" is Covert Farms - born in 1959 by Californian tomato packer Gene Covert, who had to come see for himself after hearing about this weird slice of Canada that was temperate enough to grow soft fruit.

Covert's Derek Uhlemann - the farm's executive chef, wine taster and tour guide (amongst many other jobs) - told us how the Coverts poured their hearts and souls into the undeveloped land in its early days.

Now, Covert Farms is one of the leaders in the region in the production of organically grown fruit, vegetables and wine.

The farm takes all kinds of tourists and local schoolchildren around the estate on its charming old Chevy truck, which dates right back to when the Coverts first moved to B.C.

As we, including the dog, rumble along the dusty farm track in our shiny Chevy, Uhlemann regales us with tales of how they experiment with different crops growing next to each other. Apparently, some of them (crops) help each other, unwittingly of course.

Within 10 to 15 strides - giant strides with Hershey on the leash - we've inspected or taste-tested strawberries, peaches, nectarines, melons and basil to name but a few. Uhlemann described how a group of Chinese tourists recoiled in horror as he tasted a strawberry in front of them.

The aromas were absolutely intoxicating and you found yourself frequently filling up your lungs in the hope of reproducing that same smell later in the day.

And back at the farm store, you can fill your boots also with anything and everything on Covert, including their delightful organic wines, which can be tasted at a tasting bar for a couple of bucks (redeemable against any purchase).

Golfing in the desert - this could be interesting. OK, the Sahara it is not, but it's hot enough (usually in the mid to upper 30s in summer) and that rattling sound vibrating from the rough will sting more than a two-shot penalty.

Osoyoos Golf and Country Club, set on the hillside overlooking the town, lake, vineyards and orchards delivers some of the best vistas you're likely to find on a Canadian course.

Carved out of the rugged, desert brush hillside, two 18-hole championship courses await; Desert Gold, significantly more difficult than the other, Park Meadows.

Cultivated out of a "desert beach," the 6,500 yard par 71 Desert Gold course cuts along a camber for the first few holes as it slides along the side of the hill. It then climbs up and around the mountain, gradually exposing you to arresting views, which spark the camera into action, with each sight slam-dunking the previous, up to about the 15th.

Panoramic sights aside, the course's neatly trimmed and lush fairways are framed by dusty desert brush. Tee shots are mostly straight forward, but do require a degree of accuracy.

The greens are forgiving in their reception for a course stuck in the middle of the desert, but do take a few extra balls - there's plenty of out of bounds, not least because of the rattling noise in the bushes!

I also loved the "speed of play" clocks dotted around the course. Lower Mainland courses, take note.

We were seconds from mounting for our trail rides at Satary Stables, tucked behind the main road out of Osoyoos and a short gallop to the US Border, when a fierce gust ripped through the stables, sending garbage cans flying and spooking the horses big time.

"Nope, you guys are not going anywhere tonight," said our guide, who expressed safety must come first, no matter what.

Undeterred, we took up stable owner Arleen's offer to come back after breakfast next day. And, like the evening before, we took advantage of Satary's dog kenneling service for Hershey for the duration of the ride.

Our son, Ben, at 10, was old enough to ride the "bigger" beasts, but the stable does do pony rides and a petting zoo for the little ones while mom and dad take to the desert hills high above Osoyoos.

The lead horse with the guide was as careful as mice, while my wife rode Billy Bob, I sat on the youngest, Ruby and Ben got paired with 26-year-old Buddy, who sauntered to his own slow symphony.

Snaked slowly but surely up the rough and rocky face of the hillside, the sweet scent of sage waved under our noses as the horses' legs brushed through the knee-high bushes.

A gentle nudge of the heels and rustle of the reins was all Ruby needed to follow on, as we ventured further up and round the mountain.

I split the rest of the trail ride between sucking in and taking mental pictures of the incredible views laid beneath us of orchards, vineyards and, of course, the sprawling lake, making sure Ruby stayed in his customary, yet not good enough for him, third place in the queue and glancing back to make sure Ben and Buddy weren't tailed off.

Each horse at Satary has its own unique personality and the owner and her staff are very sensitive to that and took time to pair us all with our ride for the day.

I would highly recommend Satary and its trail ride as the only true way to experience the beauty of Osoyoos.

DOG AND CHILDCARE:

There's no reason not to enjoy everything Osoyoos and the surrounding area has to offer: We took advantage of The Doggie Hotel so we could go on one of the region's amazing wine tours.

Even better was the availability of a trusted babysitter for Ben, who would have been bored stiff on the wine tour. Our sitter, Brittany, was a very experienced young girl, who kept a keen eye on Ben in the hotel pool, before sitting down to a movie in the room. And, like Hershey, Ben was the same child when we returned a few hours later.

Childcare can be arranged through the hotel.

IF YOU GO:

Watermark Beach Resort:

www.watermarkbeachresort.com (weekly rates for a two-bedroom suite range from $1,100 in the winter to $2,000 in the summer)

Covert Farms: www.covertfarms.ca

Osoyoos Golf and Country Club:

A round on the Desert Gold course in the summer is $66 plus $17 for a cart.

www.golfosoyoos.com

Satary Stables: www.satarystables.ca

The Doggie Hotel: www.rappenhof.com

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