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On the tee for tea in B.C.'s capital

News reporter tests first-hand some of Victoria's finest tea rooms and golf courses

Pinky out, tip china cup about 45 degrees towards your mouth and gently sip your organic, summer berry-infused tea.

There, that was easy.

Fifteen minutes into my first ever afternoon tea experience and I was nailing it like a veteran chai-quaffer, straight off the set of Downton Abbey.

Among the eclectic and rather quaint surroundings of the Venus Sofia vegetarian tearoom, curiously located in the heart of Victoria’s Chinatown, I had chosen to sacrifice my afternoon tea virginity with the aforementioned summer berry, as it boasted on the menu as having “uplifting energy” qualities.

And with another “T” just two hours on the horizon — at the Westin Bear Mountain Golf Resort — I needed all the lifting up I could get, especially after another monster, buffet breakfast at our Marriott Inner Harbour hotel.

To be honest, I didn’t know what to expect of the afternoon tea. After all, it had been more than 25 years since, as a teenage waiter, I allegedly served afternoon tea to sweet old ladies in a hotel in my native Scotland. I say allegedly, as it was a pair of sad, cucumber and watercress sandwiches and a scone, if they were lucky.

Thankfully, the service and fare on offer at Venus Sofia was a smidgen more sophisticated than the circa 1988 Scottish version.

Although, as fine as the china cups were and as detailed to attention as the menu was, there was something very homely about this tearoom; more akin to your old grandma’s dining room, with charm and time-aged charisma sprinkled liberally around the furniture and walls (you may notice the fixtures are deliberately mismatched).

And when the decadent, three-tiered cake tower made its appearance – complete with home-made, vanilla and lavender scones with home-made devon cream, home-made mascarpone sandwiches, home-made shortbread and dainty little delicious cakes, home-made…I think you get it – I was in afternoon tea heaven.

According to Venus’ website, Swiss-trained chef and co-owner Alain Alaily takes his inspiration from his Swiss-Italian/Egyptian roots and his “lovingly handcrafted meals are prepared with professional expertise and love.” I have no quarrel with that assertion.

The menu changes seasonally and everything is made to order, except for the baked goods, which are prepared daily. On its extensive menu, there are also gluten-free and vegan options. 

For the latest menu, go online to VenusSophia.com.
 

If you drive 25 minutes out of Downtown Victoria, you’ll find yourself parking up at one of Vancouver Island’s top golf resorts — Westin Bear Mountain.

Perched, as the name suggests, atop Bear Mountain, the resort commands spectacular views across Victoria, the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Olympic Mountain Range.

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The 14th hole on the Mountain Course at the Bear Mountain Golf Resort boasts stunning views over Victoria ans its coastline

There are two Jack Nicklaus’ designed courses — the more challenging Mountain Course, which boasts the aforementioned vistas and the Valley Course, which is still easy on the eye, as it sweeps up and down and from side to side among lush, forest greenscape.

The facilities are among the best in the country and it’s no coincidence that the Team Canada of golf bases its training camp at the resort.

Since my son, Ben, is only 13 and still finding his feet on a golf course, we played the Valley Course, 5,583 off the whites.

And from the moment you arrive, it’s clear the folks at Bear Mountain value your patronage — your bags are taken off you and married with your cart and your clubs are cleaned after the 18th — which is good to see, given how many courses are struggling to fill tee-times these days.

On the par-5 first, which dives into the valley and climbs uphill to the green, Ben not only put myself to shame by parring the hole, he also humbled one of the club pros as well as Bear Mountain’s director of golf Jordan Ray, who were tagging along for nine holes.

The Valley Course’s rolling hills, sometimes steep terrain, and giant rocks, were complemented by some well-placed water hazards and brooks, which kept us on our toes for yardage off the tees.

A neat, little tool, however, especially if you’ve never played the course before, was a touch-screen GPS map of every hole on your golfcart, just where your sunshade in your car would be.

And while the Mountain Course is said to be the tougher of the two, the signature of the Valley is its greens — lightning fast on average and with tons of hidden breaks. If you’re not careful, you’ll find yourself with a ten-foot putt for a bogey, after having a six-footer for a par.

Depending on what time of year you play, watch out for the weather up there; we played late March and it rattled through the four seasons in as many holes. For rates and reservations, go to BearMountain.ca/Golf.

What else to do:

If you’ve have enough of tea and tees for the day, I’d highly recommend saddling up for a wee cycle tour around central Victoria with The Pedaler Cycling Tours.

It’s entertaining, educational and you’ll burn off some of those calories attained via that breakfast buffet and the afternoon tea. Our guide took myself and Ben past the imposing Legislature and Empress Hotel and through Chinatown — Canada’s oldest by the way — all the while being regaled with Victoria’s founding fathers’ tawdry tales from the 19th century.

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News reporter Alan Campbell, left, and son, Ben, make a stop at Craigdarroch Castle during their bike tour around Victoria.

Uphill ever so slightly, away from the city centre, had us meandering through Victoria’s arts and theatre district and then towards the stately Craigdarroch Castle and Government House.

The views across the city were incredible atop Moss Rock, before we coasted downhill through the back streets of residential Victoria – about two hours after starting – to Beacon Hill Park and the world’s tallest, free-standing totem pole.

You can book your own group and make special requests to create your own tour. If you go in the summer months, it’s recommended you book in advance. For more information, go online to ThePedaler.ca.

Where to stay:

The Marriott Inner Harbour on Humboldt Street, directly behind the harbour-front Empress, is no more than a five-iron (180 yards on a good day) away from most attractions or services.

And, because it’s not actually on the waterfront, it’s a little more reasonably priced.

As mentioned previously, the Marriott’s buffet breakfast was to die for and the staff were super friendly and professional.

Also, if you have a dog, like we do, they only charge one fee per stay and are very welcoming in the lobby to your pooch.

For more information, go online to MarriottVictoria.com.

 Eat and Drink:

There are a plethora of fantastic brewpubs, bars and restaurants in Downtown Victoria; we checked out The Sticky Wicket, on the recommendation that kids were allowed and there were several floor levels for games and sports.

The food was pretty good and the craft draught selection was up there, but the family section was cordoned off down to the side, adrift from the heart of the pub and bereft of any atmosphere. As well, kids were not allowed in the games level.

Instead, I would head to the likes of the Canoe Brewpub or Spinnakers Gastropub across the bay, both are well worth of visit, as is Fishermen's Wharf for some top notch fish 'n' chips.

Getting there:

BC Ferries runs multiple sailings from Tsawwassen to Victoria (Schwartz Bay); if you’re travelling on a holiday, you might want to reserve your spot to be sure of making the sailing you want. Some vessels have also added new pet facilities.

For more information on pets and sail times, go online to BCFerries.com.