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Dining with a first in B.C

What do you get when you combine North America's first aboriginal winery with a classy steakhouse? An evening to savour and remember with six gourmet courses, each accompanied by a delicious Okanagan wine.

What do you get when you combine North America's first aboriginal winery with a classy steakhouse? An evening to savour and remember with six gourmet courses, each accompanied by a delicious Okanagan wine.

Carver's Steakhouse was the Richmond setting for this gourmet extravaganza when it recently hosted the Nk' Mip Winemaker's Dinner. On hand to guide the sell-out group through the evening was Justin Hall, a member of the Osoyoos Indian band and assistant winemaker at the winery.

We began our gastronomical adventure with an Nk' Mip 2012 Pinot Blanc ($16) and a Spicy Tuna Martini. Pinot blanc, is a dry white with an aroma and flavour of pineapple, peach, and pear.

It was delicious to enjoy before the meal and with the seared albacore tuna with its Thai rice salad, citrus, jalapeno and sesame oil. While the rare tuna had some bold flavours, it was all balanced and it brought out the fruitiness in our wine.

Next was a tender cinnamon-cumin braised chuck flat with goat cheese, grilled peach, and a rhubarb raita. This was enjoyed with

the Nk' Mip Talon ($23).

Named for the spirit of the Thunderbird, it represents the legendary bird's power and strength. Made from six different red grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Pinot Noir, there's a rich colour and a bouquet of black currant, vanilla, hints of chocolate and coffee.

"The Talon is made to be very soft, approachable, and more drinkable than many dry tannic reds," Hall explained.

After a lychee sorbet, we tucked in to the Carver's surf and turf. Here was a Fraser Valley chicken breast and Salt Spring Island goat cheese with spinach, mozzarella with an artichoke zucchini pie and truffle jus. And that was half the plate!

The surf half was a pan-roasted halibut with a mascarpone asparagus seafood risotto and a red pepper emulsion. The halibut was crispy, yet moist in the centre and it was probably the best halibut I have tasted.

The pairing wine was the N Nk' Mip 2012 Pinot Noir ($22). Hall explained,

"Pinot noir should be more about delicacy and finesse and it had this and succulent flavours of black cherry and plum. Perfecto with the lighter flavoured surf and turf!" And if that wasn't enough, there was one more main: Angus beef filet mignon, jeera hash, sesame gai lan, with veal port wine reduction and balsamic essence. Chef Manuel Carganilla Jr. makes a point of combining western protein with Asian flavours and ingredients in his fusion cuisine.

To match all of this, Hall uncorked an astounding Nk'Mip Qwam Qwmt 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon ($30). Although it was a rich red with layers of enchanting aromas and flavours and a silky texture, winemaker Hall said it was not perfect. The Osoyoos Band does not have a word for perfection.

I was thrilled with its black cherry and cassis fruit, the vanilla, chocolate, coffee undertones, all spiced with hints of cloves and cinnamon.

If it's not perfect, it was certainly close to perfection. Tasting the filet and then sipping the wine really brought out more complexity in the wine.

The only minor criticism was that the curried jeerah hash had too much spice, which overshadowed the cab's brilliance.

The finishing touch to the gastronomic odyssey was dessert. How does Carvers' Chocolate Cookie Jar sound? I was caught with my spoon in that jar and revelled in its chocolate ice cream, caramel, nuts, chocolate chips, and chunks of turtle cheesecake.

And to wash it down, an Nk'Mip Riesling Ice Wine ($60). B.C. wine guru John Schreiner gave this wine a perfect score of 100. Hall said, "For every litre of ice wine, you lose eight litres of water. Making wine from frozen grapes is a very difficult process, but the end result is absolutely delicious." I agree!

The golden ice wine had a heavenly bouquet and concentrated flavours of baked apple, apricot and honey.

Although it was high in sugar, it was not sickly sweet. The refreshing acidity kept the wine well balanced.

My thanks to Justin Hall, of Nk'Mip Cellars, Michael Hajdukovich, maitre'd, Manuel Carganilla Jr., chef, and the entire staff of Carver's Steakhouse in Richmond for night to remember!

Eric Hanson is a local, retired teacher and wine educator.