Recently, I had the opportunity to visit Blue Grouse Estate Winery located in Duncan.
Many oenophiles are looking for unique and undiscovered wineries and wine regions. Sometimes the grass is not always greener on the other side, and while wine lovers seek out obscure grape varietals from Italy and South America, they miss the hidden gem that is right near us: the Cowichan Valley.
The Cowichan Valley is a burgeoning wine region producing some very exciting wines. Global warming has caused temperatures to rise gradually but steadily around the world. This slight temperature rise has turned the Cowichan Valley from a wine region that frequently lacked heat for early ripening grape varietals to thriving in an optimum climate for growing Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Germanic clone varietals.
The difference in the quality of wines from even 15 years ago is astonishing. Leading the way in the Cowichan Valley are two wineries owned by members of the Jackson Family of Wines of California: Blue Grouse Estate Winery and Unsworth Vineyards.
This column will focus on my tastings at Blue Grouse Estate Winery, and my next column will review my tasting at Unsworth Vineyards.
I strongly suggest visiting Blue Grouse Estate Winery to experience the Cowichan Valley yourself. It is only a ferry ride and then about a one-hour drive from either Nanaimo or Victoria.
You will experience the sunshine and breeze that creates a mild Mediterranean climate, which has earned the Cowichan Valley the moniker of Canada's Provence.
Members of the Jackson Family of Wines purchased Blue Grouse Estate Winery in 2022. This group are cool climate specialists, particularly with the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grape varietals.
They have already purchased additional vineyard sites, upgraded the winemaking facilities and added expertise by appointing Stacy Hornemann as the new winemaker at Blue Grouse.
Stacy has extensive experience, working at Trefethen Family Vineyards, Mumm Napa, St. Supéry Estate Vineyards, Materra Cunat Family Vineyards and, most recently, as assistant winemaker at Stonestreet in Sonoma County.
I tasted several Blue Grouse wines with Stacy, and she is one of the most personable winemakers I have met. She is excited to work with the Germanic clone varietals that grow very well in the Cowichan Valley and has expertise in using neutral oak to add body and depth to wines.
Many wines really impressed me during our tasting.
Blue Grouse’s Pinot Gris wines are amazing. It is available in B.C. Liquor Stores this month at $26.99 (reduced from $28.99). The first vintage (2023) of their Reserve Pinot Gris is available at the winery for $39.99. Both are wonderful examples of Pinot Gris wines that have citrus, pear, grapefruit and orange peel flavours with a mineral aftertaste.
The yet-to-be-released Blue Grouse 2023 Pinot Noir is stunning and is probably the best Pinot Noir this winery has ever produced. Mild yet sunny spring and summer seasons produced the ideal conditions for Pinot Noir grape growth. You will get cherries and pomegranate with a great mid palate and vibrant acidity.
Their 2023 Chardonnay, which is available in B.C. Liquor Stores for $31.99 needs a bit more age but will continue to improve over the next two years. Currently, you will get citrus and lemon flavours with a creamy mid-palate. The aftertaste has minerality, apples and marzipan flavours. It will reward those who are patient.
One of the most interesting wines in the Blue Grouse portfolio is their 2023 Siegerrebe. This is a Germanic clone varietal that is a cross between Madeline Angevine and Gewurztraminer.
On the nose, you will smell the aromatics of Gewurztraminer (honeysuckle, lychee), but on the palate, you will get tangerine, apricots with a musty, citrus aftertaste. A killer wine if you want to stump people on a blind tasting! Available at the winery for $29.99.
I can’t forget mentioning their 2024 rosé, which is a blend of 63-per-cent Pinot Noir, 15-per-cent Pinot Gris, 12-per-cent Gamay and 10-per-cent Chardonnay. The wine has floral and dark fruit aromas with lots of strawberry, rhubarb and citrus flavours on the palate.
Why would anyone buy Provence rosé when they could get just as good a B.C. wine at a similar or lower price? Priced at B.C. Liquor Stores at $26.99
Looking forward, I tasted barrel samples of their Ortega grape varietal. I would watch out for this grape varietal, as Stacy is really excited about showing how quality wine can be made with this grape varietal.
For a full review of my extensive tasting of the Blue Grouse portfolio of wines that I tasted at the winery, please see my video here.
Until next time, happy drinking!
Tony Kwan is a Richmond News columnist. Lawyer by day, and a food and wine lover by night. Kwan is an epicurean who writes about wine, food and enjoying all that life has to offer.
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