Summerhill Pyramid Winery’s reputation has been built on at least two innovations ever since Stephen Cipes moved from New York to B.C.’s Okanagan in the late 1980s. One is the pyramid, which is used for aging their wines. While you might be skeptical of the benefits of storing wine in a pyramid, it is a great tourist draw and marketing tool.
But perhaps the most important innovation was producing award-winning sparkling wines beginning in 1992 with Cipes Brut ($26.95). It’s a tasty blend of Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc made by the traditional champagne method. As Cipe’s son and Summerhill’s CEO, Ezra Cipes, revealed at a luncheon at Vancouver’s Hawksworth Restaurant, “It’s an everyday wine for someone who drinks sparkling wines everyday.”
At the other end of the price spectrum, Summerhill makes prestige cuvée wines such as Cipes 1996 Traditonal Cuvée ($99.90) that is the B.C. equivalent of Vintage Champagne, a wine for special occasions.
And sandwiched in between are three sparklers priced between $30 and $50 which I enjoyed with Chef Kristof Gillese’s divine lunch cuisine.
The reception wine was the 2008 Cipes Blanc de Noirs ($34.90) produced from 100 per cent Pinot Noir. Veteran winemaker, Eric von Krosigk confides, “It’s one of my favourites: light red fruit characteristics. When in doubt, it’s my go-to wine.” I found it refreshing, flavourful and a perfect opener to whet the appetite.
Next was the 100 per cent Chardonnay Cipes 2010 Blanc de Blanc ($39.90). That year was a cool vintage. Von Krosigk says, “We had all the right flavour profiles showing up. It has a super delicate flavour of Chardonnay without tasting overwhelming, like a Californian Chardonnay can.” He adds that despite aging four years in the bottle, “It’s very young and will mature and develop more creaminess.”
Served with a shrimp ceviche with Meyer lemon and chili, the Blanc de Blanc has plenty of crisp acid and citrus character and was a wonderful match with the entreé.
I then enjoyed the second course with the Cipes 2011 Blanc de Franc ($39.90).
Made from partly frozen Cabernet Franc grapes picked in the middle of a November snowstorm, the fruit had low sugar levels, which would have made an unsatisfactory still wine, but, as a sparkling wine, the Cabernet Franc is delicious. Expect lots of red berry and blueberry characteristics with lightness and finesse.
It was a perfect partner to the delicate, flaked Kuterra Salmon with grapefruit, beet, and frisée.
Our third course was paired with the Cipes 1996 Traditional Cuvée ($99.90 at the winery and select restaurants). It’s produced from the traditional Champagne grapes, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, grown organically at Summerhill. Aged on its lees for 18 years, this cuvée displayed complex flavours and a gorgeous golden hue. There’s honey in the bouquet, with lime and ginger on the palate.
Fabulous with the complex flavours of the confit chicken and mushroom terrine. It’s the acid that allows this wine to age 18 years and still be fresh. And it’s the acid and the bubbles that works so well with almost any food and tickles your palate for more.
This holiday season, discover the impressive range of Cipes Sparkling Wines from Summerhill. As winemaker Eric von Krosigk reveals, “These speak to me of the variety and the diversity of the wines that come out of B.C. Every year there’s something new.”
Eric Hanson is a retired Richmond teacher and local wine expert. He can be reached at [email protected]
