If you can’t make it to Venice anytime soon, you can bring the taste of Venice into your life by exploring the delicious wines of nearby Valpolicella.
Located west of Venice and north of Shakespeare’s ‘Fair Verona’, the Valpolicella region is characterized by soft sloped hills covered with vineyards, olive and cherry trees. And delicious reds.
After Chianti, Valpolicella is the second most important wine region in Italy. The red wines are made from three indigenous grape varieties only found within the Verona province: Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella.
Of the four levels of Valpolicella, I recently enjoyed the Valpolicella DOC, Valpolicella Ripasso DOC, and Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG.
The Classico is the least expensive and is meant for everyday consumption. The Bolla 2014 Valpolicella Classico ($13.99 until Oct. 29) is a bright fruity red with an inviting aroma of black cherries.
Although it has a medium light body, it has the Italian savoury flavour along with dried berries, raisins, and a hint of bitter almonds. Often compared to France’s Beaujolais, it is youthful and has soft tannins which are easy to enjoy. Try it chilled for half an hour in the fridge. Delicious with stuffed artichokes (http://www.bcliquorstores.com/recipe/food/stuffed-artichokes), roast chicken, and rabbit.
The Tommasi 2011 Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico (54.99), on the other hand, is fairly expensive but a bargain for the quality. It is made in a unique method where the grapes are dried on racks in lofts for four months. The raisiny grapes have concentrated flavours and sugars and although the sugars are fermented to dryness, there is the illusion of sweetness.
The Tommasi has a brick-red edge to its dark ruby colour. I adore the perfumed bouquet of cherries, vanilla, spice, and violets. It has a smooth yet full body with flavours of ripe boysenberries and cherries and a hint of umami mushrooms.
If you are looking for something less pricey than Amarone, a great alternative is Valpolicella Ripasso DOC. It is basically a compromise between the light Valpolicella and the heartier Amarone. It begins with Amarone skins which are steeped in the regular Valpolicella for two to three weeks.
Compared with Valpolicella, the Folonari 2014 Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore ($17.99) is heavier but smoother and has a more complex bouquet and flavour. Expect cherry and balsamic, with ripe fruit, some smokiness and tar with a longer finish.
The Folarni Ripasso wines can be served with a number of dishes such as porcini mushroom risotto and pasta. But they are at their best when paired with robust mains involving roasted veal or lamb or braised or barbequed red meats like steak, sausage and venison. Ripasso also goes well with aged cheeses like Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Eric Hanson is a retired teacher and wine educator
