“It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was the age of wisdom, it was the age of foolishness.” So wrote Charles Dickens in A Tale of Two Cities. Those descriptions meant for the era before the French Revolution, accurately portray our present with COVID-19, Trump, etc. But they also describe the B.C. wine world.
Today’s two wine picks should illustrate the best of times for B.C. wines. Whether it’s called Shiraz or Syrah, the wine is produced the same grape.
Alex Nichol who founded Nichol Vineyards first planted Syrah or Shiraz in B.C. in the early 90’s. Three decades later, it’s the fifth most planted red grape after Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.
Wineries choose one name over the other. It depends on the soil and the climate of the location as well as how the winemaker deals with the wine as it ferments and later ages. If it’s full of ripe juicy fruit flavours it’s likely called Shiraz after Australia’s most popular red grape. If it’s less fruity, but more earthy and savoury, it’s called Syrah -- named after the French style from the Rhone.
One Shiraz I admire is the 2016 Sunrock Vineyard Shiraz ($29.99). Apparently Mark Sheriden, the original viticulturalist at Jackson-Triggs who was the original owner of the vineyard, was Australian and he chose Shiraz for the label.
Arterra Wines, Sunrock’s present owner, turned this premium vineyard into it’s own brand. A winery brochure states, “Ripening potential is extended into late October as the site is adjacent to a massive south-facing outcropping known as ‘Sunrock’ that reflects the sun’s rays during the day and holds the desert heat well after sundown. These factors contribute to the huge varietal expression for late ripening varieties that can only be achieved on limited sites in the Okanagan.”
The Sunrock Shiraz has an exuberant bouquet of blue and black fruit and vanilla. The flavour is smooth with rich ripe blueberries, blackberries, and oak. Letting it breath reveals black cherry, port and licorice. What an elegant complex Shiraz!
Sunrock won silver at the 2019 Syrah du Monde and silver again at the 2019 Intervin Wine Awards. Enjoy with a lamb gyros or barbecued pork with plum sauce to bring out the fruitiness in the wine. Available at Richmond Brighouse and Ironwood BCLDBs.
The 2016 Painted Rock Syrah ($42.99) is another example of a superb BC Syrah. Named after a 500 year old aboriginal petroglyph discovered on the property, this family estate winery is owned by John and Trish Skinner. It’s perched on a spectacular bench overlooking Skaha Lake in Penticton.
According to John Skinner, “If Painted Rock is going to compete with the best in the world we must have confidence in our terroir and allow it to express its uniqueness. That's why we are 100% Estate." It is now 15 years since the planting of Painted Rock’s estate and the property is living up to its potential, taking home a gold medal at the 2019 Wine Align National Wine Awards.
The Painted Rock Syrah is made in the French style with the characteristic black pepper. Less opulent than the Sunrock, it’s still elegant and complex with savoury salami flavours and an earthiness mixed with the blackberry fruit. A wine to savour and enjoy with any grilled or roasted red meat. And for warm summer evenings, pair it with a Thai Skirt Steak Salad with Arugula and Thai rice noodles. Available at the Richmond Brighouse BCLDB.
Eric Hanson is a life-long Richmond resident, retired teacher and wine educator. Eric has also taught wine appreciation courses in Richmond and throughout Metro Vancouver for many years. He continues to be a journalistic ambassador for the enchanting world of wine through his weekly column.
