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Column: Wine, consistency or adventure?

Most of us are fairly consistent in our habits. When it comes to wine, we usually continue to buy and enjoy our tried and true favourites.

Most of us are fairly consistent in our habits. When it comes to wine, we usually continue to buy and enjoy our tried and true favourites.

When I want to serve a really good chardonnay in my wine classes, I pick a Sebastiani from Sonoma County, California. Like its slightly more prestigious neighbour, the Napa Valley, Sonoma makes some of California’s best wines. And Sonoma is larger and more scenic than its rival.

Year in and year out, the Sebastiani Chard is one of the most popular wines in my wine classes. The 2012 version is right on track. Sebastiani has been making wines since 1904 when Samuele Sebastiani emigrated from Italy to Sonoma.

During prohibition when winemaking became illegal, this winery was one of the few that stayed in business. Sebastiani sold barrels of grape juice with a packet of yeast on top with a helpful message on top, “Warning! Do not add yeast to juice. Alcohol will result!”

The 2012 Sebastiani Chardonnay ($21) is golden due to the natural colour of its juice as well as the oak aging that many chards undergo before bottling.

It has an enticing bouquet of ripe apples, lemon peel, plus a gentle whiff of vanilla. What’s not to like?

But savour a taste and there’s more to enjoy. The flavour is creamy, with golden delicious apples and butterscotch. It’s elegant and well balanced with the fruit, oak, and acid in equal partnership. After swallowing, there is a lengthy hazelnut and citrus finish to relish. I think I like this!

Much as I like tasting old reliables, I enjoy trying new wines even more. I think I have inherited my smorgasbord approach to life, thanks to my Swedish grand-parents. 

Recently, I have discovered a new Sebastiani, the 2012 cabernet sauvignon ($22).

It’s dark ruby appearance in the glass is classic for a cab. Cabernet sauvignon has very thick skins and it’s the skins that gives a wine its colour. The bouquet has dark fruits such as plum, blackberry, cranberry, cassis, as well as suggestions of cola, licorice, and vanilla.

Sipping the Sebastiani Cab reveals a rich black-currant flavour, the typical tea leaf undertones from subtle oak aging, with enough tannins to provide structure but soft enough to enjoy now.

As with all red wines, you will enjoy it much more if you decant it by pouring into a decanter or some other container. This will aerate the wine, allowing its bouquet and flavour to evolve and reveal more of their charm.

Cabernet sauvignon is wonderful alongside hearty red meat dishes such as prime rib, short ribs, and lamb. Make sure you splash some of the cab into the pan juices along with some beef stock to add more richness and complexity.

Eric Hanson is a local retired teacher and wine educator.