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Column: Tales from Church and State

If you really want to discover the enchanting world of wine, do yourself a favour; attend a winemaker’s dinner! Tapenade Bistro and Sip Wines recently invited Kim Pullan of B.C.
wine
Kim Pullan, owner of Church and State, at his winery.

If you really want to discover the enchanting world of wine, do yourself a favour; attend a winemaker’s dinner!

Tapenade Bistro and Sip Wines recently invited Kim Pullan of B.C.’s Church and State Winery to uncork 11 wines, many of them medal winners.

And chef Colin Uyeda and his brigade showcased their culinary talents by matching the wines with five elegant courses.

Although you pay slightly more than $100, it really is an amazing experience and a bargain; the price includes tax and gratuities. And you are probably paying only half of what it’s actually worth.

One of the delights in a winemaker’s dinner is you get to know the guy who makes the wine. Pullan is a folksy raconteur who keeps his audience entertained and informed about the ins and outs of running a winery.

As we enjoyed his 2012 Cuvee Blanc ($20), an off dry fruity white, he described it as “our interpretation of a patio sipper. It’s a perfect wine if you’ve got friends that you don’t want to spend a lot of money on.”

And Pullan shared with his audience both the ups and downs of running a winery. Last May they won an array of platinum, gold, and silver medals in North American and European competitions. After that huge accomplishment, he said, “We should just quit.”

Pullan also told a tale of woe about pouring a million dollars of wine down the drain after his winemaker made a big goof. “An awe sh*t” moment”, he revealed.

You needn’t worry about learning winespeak, which the average wine drinker can’t understand.

As Pullan introduced himself, he said, “I like to talk more about who we are and what we try to do and the experiences we have, rather than trying to tell you about raspberry or tobacco taste you’re going to get. Quite frankly you are going to get what you get. Everybody has a different palate and our palate is affected by your day.”

Another delight of this event is you are often served two similar wines to compare. This is an excellent strategy to notice the subtle differences between the same wine from different years.

With the first course, diver scallops, we tasted the 2012 and the 2013 Viognier ($20). While the 2012 was barrel fermented in oak making it richer in flavour and body, the 2013 was fermented in stainless steel and lighter and fruitier.

With the duck breast, we sipped two Church and State Merlots, a 2010 Coyote Bowl and a 2012 Coyote Bowl ($25). The 2012 is a barrel sample, not yet bottled so you have to focus on the taste rather than the nose as it’s very oaky at this early stage. Both of the wines come from their vineyards in Oliver which produce superb reds. Pullan calls Merlot his peanut butter and jam wine. “If you’ve had a tough week, that’s what you want. It doesn’t argue with you. It just tastes good!”

Finally, we enjoyed the flagship wine for Church and State: the 2009 and 2011 Quintessential ($55). It is a blend of five different grapes in the tradition of French Bordeaux. The older Q is a big rich juicy wine that most British Columbians love. The 2011 comes from a difficult vintage and is lighter, more French, and less alcohol.

“If you’re having food with great company, and you want to survive the night and have great conversation, the 2011 is so much more subtle and has lots of finesse,” Pullan concludes.

Church and State Wines are available at Sips Wines at Ironwood (www.sipwines.ca) and other VQA stores. Chef Uyeda’s cuisine is at Tapenade Bistro in Steveston Village. (www.tapenade.ca). Bon Appetit!