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Column: Roche wines celebrates 10th anniversary

Okanagan's Roche Winery starts organic farming methods

Dylan and Pénélope Roche honed their viticulture and winemaking skills in France’s Burgundy and Bordeaux France, as well as New Zealand. But by 2011 they decided to bring their expertise to the Okanagan and by 2017 they opened Roche winery in the southern end of Naramata.

The labels of their 2019 and 2020 wines display “Organically Farmed.” Some of the wines originate in nearby Kosier Vineyard, which is certified organic. Dylan Roche added, “As far as the six acres of farming at the winery, we’ve started our organic methods. We have not looked for certification yet because there’s so much else going on.”

Among the organic methods Roche uses is the Finger Weeder. “It's a mechanical device that mounts on the tractor and has flexible fingers that sneak under the vine row and disrupts the weed,” he added.

“If you’re spraying Round-Up to keep the weeds down, after a few years you create a desert under the vine because everything is dead and compact. Healthy soil needs air and water to keep the bacterial population happy in that first layer of soil,” Roche stated.

“Not only are we avoiding herbicides but we’re making sure that top layer of soil gets used like a living mulch meaning that there’s a bacterial population living in there which is able to convert the available nitrogen fixation that the vine can pick up”.

Despite the Pandemic, Roche is optimistic about the tourist season. “We are supposed to be on a growth curve because we’re young, and we think it may be busier than 2019. I expect that when people are authorized to do so, lots of people will want to come because they’re not going to Hawaii or France.”

Roche Wines is having private tastings and reservations are advised. “We’ve got outdoor tasting spaces as an effort to keep people safe. We’ve switched to booking ahead, and walk-in if possible. The nice thing is you’re not interrupted. You can come and sit down for 30 minutes and there isn’t another group wanting your place,” Roche concluded.”

Last week I reviewed Roche Rosé and the Nuance, a Merlot-based blend. Today here’s four more from their portfolio. They offer two Pinot Gris: The Roche Pinot Gris Traditional ($28.90) and the Roche Texture ($21.90). Both are grown on the organic Kozier Vineyard in Naramata. The farm slopes west to face the setting sun and Okanagan Lake, ensuring long even ripening.

The Traditional has a medium straw colour with glints of gold. In the glass a generous aroma of the ripe tree and tropical fruit greets you. On the palate, there’s flavours of pear, apple, quince and toasted nuts with minerality and a lemon finish. I enjoyed the Pinot Gris with homemade borscht. The winery recommends serving it with the duck burger whose recipe is on its website.

The Texture was just released last month. It’s bright, juicy and delicious with a peachy apricot mango character, lots of fresh acidity and minerality for added complexity. Delicious with lobster, garlic prawns, and fresh asparagus.

For red wine lovers, Roche Wines has a Pinot Noir and a Merlot Bordeaux style blend. The 2019 Roche Pinot Noir Texture ($26.90) is also organically farmed in Naramata. The grapes are handpicked and fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged in neutral French oak.

The result is a structured Pinot with black cherry and a gentle oaky aroma. The grapes are picked before they over-ripen, producing a red berry and pomegranate flavour with a hint of earthiness. The winery recommends pairing it with a robust dinner like duck confit or lamb ragout.

Finally, the Roche Wines 2017 Chateau ($49.90) is a premium blend of 54-per-cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 36-per-cent Merlot, and 10-per-cent cabernet Franc. The two Cabs are grown in Oliver whereas the Merlot is grown in Naramata. With 3 and a half years of cellaring, it’s delicious and smooth to drink now.

I enjoyed the Chateau’s charming bouquet of red and black fruits with herbs and licorice. The flavour reveals black currants and plums with fine tannins and a freshness that begs for food. I enjoyed it with a BC rack of lamb. Although drinking nicely now, it is blended to reward 5 -10 years of cellaring.

Check Roche Wines’ website for online sales and tasting reservations. Their wines are available at JAK’s Wines in Richmond and at Everything Wine in Vancouver and Surrey.