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Column: Exploring Mont Saint Michel, the Emerald Coast in France

From food to historical structures dating back to the 1800s.

Want a vacation for your soul?  I recently travelled to Mont Saint Michel and the Emerald Coast in France. Although this destination is not as well known as some major urban centres, I found the visit recharged my mind and my soul.

Mont Saint Michel is located in the Normandy region of France. It is a tidal island that is accessible at low tide but sometimes can be completely surrounded by water at high tide.  Fortunately, a bridge was built between the mainland and the island of Mont Saint Michel in 2014.  However, on rare occasions, the tide still submerges the bridge completely.

Legend has it that in 708, the Archangel Michael appeared in a dream to St. Aubert, the bishop of Avranches. The archangel ordered the bishop to build a sanctuary in his name at the top of the island and that is how the island got its name. At the top of Mont Saint Michel is an abbey that was and still is treated as a pilgrimage site.  It is amazing to walk across the bridge to Mont Saint Michel or better yet, to walk in the bay surrounding Mont Saint Michel and then to climb the multitude of stone steps to reach a magnificent view of the areas surrounding Mont Saint Michel and an abbey that is built into the bedrock of the island.  The abbey itself is an architectural wonder as it exhibits architecture from different periods of time (since the abbey has been burned and destroyed so many times during its lifetime).  Because of its isolated location, it was used as a prison during the reign of King Louis VI in the 1800s.  Now it welcomes over 2.5 million visitors each year.

I had the pleasure of staying at Le Mere Poulard, an inn on the island that has been welcoming pilgrims and now tourists since 1888.  Their restaurant serves their famous omelet which is made over a wood fire.  To wander the island when all the tourists have left and the streets of the medieval town are empty is a magical experience. 

The Emerald Coast is a short scenic drive from Mont Saint Michel.  The Emerald Coast refers to about 40 kilometres of coastline that run between Cancale and Cape Fréhel. It is named after the sea's emerald colour that you can observe during certain months of the year.  Every village along the coastline is picturesque and the beauty of the surroundings will just melt your heart.  We used the city of Saint-Malo as our base but all the towns and villages have quaint hotels and very welcoming people.

The food in this region is also amazing!  You must try the oysters in Cancale (which are briny and have the saltiness of the sea) and the salt meadow lamb in Mont Saint Michel (sheep graze in pastures with grass that is high in salinity and iodine content, causing their meat to have a distinct, salty taste).  All types of other fresh fish and shellfish are found in these regions.  Because this region has many smaller towns, you can get high-quality meals at very affordable prices.  Two of my favourite restaurants in the region are Le Ferme Saint Michel (Mont Saint Michel) and Fidelis (Saint Malo), which you can watch my review here and here, respectively.

If you are interested in travelling to Mont Saint Michel, click here.

My wine recommendation this month is the Kim Crawford 2022 Ilumunate Sauvignon Blanc, reduced until July 29, 2023, from $22.99 to $19.99.  This represents a new breed of lower-alcohol wines.  It is only 70 calories per serving and only 7-per-cent alcohol without losing out on the flavour of the wine.  Until next time, happy drinking!

Tony Kwan is the Richmond News' is a lawyer by day, and a food and wine lover by night. Kwan is an epicurean who writes about wine, food and enjoying all that life has to offer.