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Column: Explore the food-friendly wines of France

Which region of France is the second-largest wine producing region? Here’s a hint: It’s also the second most important French region for wine exports to Canada.

Which region of France is the second-largest wine producing region? Here’s a hint: It’s also the second most important French region for wine exports to Canada. 

The answer? The Rhône Valley! Rhône vineyards are located in south-eastern France, along the Rhône River, between Lyon in the north and Avignon in the south.

Christophe Tassan, a French sommelier and Rhône Wine Ambassador par excellence, was recently in town to remind us of why Rhône wines are so popular.

“Rhône wines are brighter than before, they are food friendly, and I don’t need education to have fun,” boasts Tassan with his Gallic pride and exuberance.

Although 91 per cent of Rhône wines are red, there are some tasty white blends at affordable prices. The Maison Gabriel Meffre 2014 Saint Vincent Côtes du Rhône Blanc ($15.99) is a prime example.

Grenache Blanc, Rousanne, and Clairette Blanche grapes are fermented and blended to produce a dry, mineral-rich white with floral scents and peach and pear flavours.

I enjoyed it with Moroccan chicken skewers and cucumber lemon yogurt at the Clough Club in Gastown.

Two other Côtes du Rhône Blancs are Louis Bernard ($13.99) and Ogier Heritages ($16.99). Enjoyable as an apéritif and delicious served alongside grilled albacore tuna.

At the Salt Tasting Room in Gastown, I sampled Les Dauphins 2013 Côtes du Rhône Reserve Red ($13.99). Like most Rhône reds, the Dauphins is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. It has a beautiful Belle Époque label, but there’s great value behind the packaging.

The Grenache adds strawberry notes along with bacon flavours and black pepper. Syrah adds blackberry, blueberry, and a hint of pepper, and allows the wine to age well. And Mourvèdre adds more colour and body.

I thoroughly enjoyed Les Dauphins with Chef Stephen Lusby-Blackburn’s pan-seared pancetta salami with truffle honey mustard. The meat and pepper notes of the wine married well with the charcroute.

At Wildebeest in Gastown, I savoured Chef Pekka Tavela’s Angus Striploin with a Côtes du Rhône red from a new appellation: Saint-Mapalis. The 2013 Maison Gareil Meffre Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages ($15.99) was flavourful, complex, and well priced; my favourite red out of four with the steak.

Côtes du Rhône -Villages are wines from villages whose vineyards are more premium than general appellations. I loved the Plan de Dieu’s lush flavour of blackberry with the earthy terroir and smoked meat flavour. And the licorice finish was a parting high note for me.

Delicious with a Chinese pork chop with five spice powder which made the wine’s subtle notes of cumin and paprika more dramatic.

One final Côtes du Rhône red was the 2013 Maison Brotte La Fiole ($17.49). It’s in the wine bottle that replicates what happened when the wine cellar burned down and the bottles partly melted.

Enjoy its good depth of colour and flavour with strawberries, cherries, licorice and some barnyard which to me spells French Red!

As Christophe Tassan reminds us, “Wine is 95 per cent of the time enjoyed at the table. Wine is to highlight the food, not to take over the food. Rhône is a friendly wine because Grenache is friendly. Want a pizza? Grab a Grenache. Want sushi?  Grab a Grenache. Rhône is easy!”

Eric Hanson is a life-long Richmond resident, retired teacher and wine educator.