Their motto is “Our Roots Run Deep.” And it’s not just clever marketing. It’s the truth about Hester Creek Estate Winery.
Back in 1968, a pioneer winemaker, Joe Busnardo recognized the potential for growing vinifera grapes on a site reminiscent of the Italian hillsides of his youth.
Many of those original plantings have thrived in the years since, especially after current owner Curt Garland’s stewardship and investments on this site, in the vineyards, and the extensive new facilities. His goal is to produce premium wines from these renowned vineyards.
The perfect location for European vinifera grapes was on a sun-drenched bench with sloping hills on a site just south of Oliver that facilitates a longer growing season. Virtually unheard of at the time for British Columbia, over 80 classic European vinifera grapes were planted on the then 76-acre property.
Several of those original varietals planted by Busnardo have thrived throughout the past half century with the Pinot Blanc, Trebbiano, “Italian Merlot” and Cabernet Franc flourishing on Hester Creek’s estate. These old vines have an intensity and elegance that bring a sense of old world Italy to the Hester Creek vineyard.
Over the years they have added to the classic mix of varietals with additional plantings of Merlot, Pinot Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Pinot Gris, Sémillon and Syrah.
I recently tasted three new releases from Hester Creek. Their 2021 Hester Creek Character Red (90 points, Outstanding; $19.99)) lives up to its name! It’s full of character! The Character Red is a complex blend of Merlot, Syrah, Petit Verdot, and Malbec and a unique clone of the old vine Merlot originally from Italy.
The 2021 growing season in the South Okanagan was the driest on record and one of the hottest. The grapes were harvested in mid-September from their Golden Mile Bench estate vineyard. As a result, the red varietals enjoyed more concentrated flavours and colours.
The Character Red’s aroma displays plum and cherry with a dusting of cocoa, forest floor and sage. There’s also blackberry and blueberry with white pepper plus ripe fruit and savoury flavours.
Aged in 25 per cent American oak and 75 per cent French oak for eight months, the medium-full body has approachable tannins and refreshing acidity. It’s ready to drink now but can be cellared for five years. Enjoy alongside ribs in a tomato ragu with pappardelle.
The Hester Creek 2020 Old Vine Merlot (88 points, Very Good; $27.99) was grown on the Golden Mile Bench estate vineyard and from three vineyards nearby. The Merlot was fermented for 15 days in Italian Ganimede fermenters, then aged for 18 months in 75 per cent French oak and 25 per cent American oak. It reveals a dusty plum aroma with cherry.
On the palate, there are red fruit flavours as well as chocolate with medium firm tannins and juicy acidity. Enjoy with morel, sundried tomato and roasted garlic pizza, or perhaps caramelized roast squash, roast duck or beef bourguignon.
The final red was my favourite: the Hester Creek 2020 Old Vine Cabernet Franc (91 points, Outstanding; $27.99).
Handpicked grapes from Block 3 of Hester Creek’s historic vineyard, these half-century-old vines have low yields and produce beautifully concentrated fruit. A gentle fermentation in Italian Ganimede fermenters for 20 days provided an ideal concentration of colour and flavours. The Cabernet Franc was aged for 18 months on fine lees primarily in French oak barrels.
The nose displays floral scents with vanilla and cherry. On the palate, there are blackberry and raspberry flavours with medium tannins and a medium-light body ending with a spicy fruity finish. Complex and well-balanced with acidity, fruit and tannins. Enjoy herb-crusted seared ahi tuna or a fresh raspberry and goat cheese crostini. Enjoy now or cellar for up to five years.
All three wines are available online.
