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Column: A wine of Southern Tuscany

Must try wines from Southern Tuscany include Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino
Conti Costanti
One of the finest examples of Brunello di Montalcino, Conti Costanti, from the exceptional 2016 vintage from the B.C. liquor stores

Montalcino is an area in Southern Tuscany. In the wine world, it is known as the home of Brunello di Montalcino. Brunello, or Sangiovese Grosso, is a clone of the Sangiovese grape and is the only wine grape variety used in producing red wines from this region.

Montalcino is a stunning place on top of a hill. Sloping hillside vineyards surround the town. Chianti wines are made with a different clone of Sangiovese grapes, but the Chianti region is more northerly and inland. Chianti wines are typically not made exclusively from Sangiovese grapes and are not aged for as long as Brunello di Montalcino wines before release. I am always intrigued by how the same grape variety grown in different climates and terroirs can produce distinctly different wines.

The Sangiovese grape variety is late-ripening and thrives in hot, dry weather. Some of the best Brunello-producing vineyards have a bit of breeze due to higher elevations and the influence of maritime winds. Brunello wines are generally fairly acidic, tannic and have high alcohol content with dark plum and red fruit flavours. Because these wines are so heavy, Brunellos must be aged for at least five years before they are released to the public. Riserva Brunellos have to be aged for six years before release. Brunello wines are made for ageing and many Brunello wines do not reach their drinking window until they have been stored for at least 10 years.

One of the best ways to try Brunello affordably is to buy Rosso di Montalcino wines. Whereas Brunello wines must be aged for 5 years before release, Rossi di Montalcino wines are only aged for 1 year before release. Many young vines are not mature enough to produce the complex, intense grapes which are used for Brunello di Montalcino wines, so the grapes from these young vines are used to produce Rosso di Montalcino. Think of Rosso as the younger sibling of Brunello. Rossi di Montalcino wines are approachable much earlier than Brunello, and because they need less storage time and are less complex, they are normally half or two-thirds of the price of Brunello. Try Rosso di Montalcino and if the taste profile is not to your liking, then you probably won’t enjoy Brunello di Montalcino. However, if you do enjoy Rosso di Montalcino, then you can splurge and take a dive to invest in some higher-priced Brunellos.

Our liquor stores have a good selection of Rossi di Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino wines. Here are a few I would recommend:

Altesino 2018 Rosso di Montalcino – Altesino is a solid producer of both Rosso and Brunello that is widely available. You always get consistent quality with Altesino and it is a great introduction to Montalcino wines. It’s priced at $29.99.

Frescobaldi 2015 Brunello di Montalcino – Frescobaldi is another large, solid producer of Brunello. Their wines are available in both half-bottle (375 ml) and full bottle formats. It is priced at $58.99 for a full bottle.

Conti Costanti 2016 Brunello di Montalcino – Conti Costanti is a premier producer of Brunello wines. They have produced Brunello since the early 1900s and their vineyard has an elevated location. Their wines are iconic, particularly in the spectacular 2016 vintage. Their wines are pricey but well worth it as they will drink well for the next 30 years. It is priced at $145.99. For my full review of this wine, please visit my YouTube channel. Until next time, happy drinking!

Tony Kwan is a lifestyle writer.  Lawyer by day, food and wine lover by night, Tony aims to give you an insider’s guide to the best that life has to offer.