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Cortes packed full of summer moments to remember

Warm waters, marine life attracts worldwide attention

It's nighttime, the sun is slowly setting.

My partner Dennis and I are walking briskly in the forest, breathing in the pungent scent of earth and century-old cedar and fir trees. We finally reach our destination - Smelt Bay - and run onto the beach to catch the last rays of sun as it disappears into the distant Quadra Island.

It's so still, the waters sparkle like sapphire as the sun dips out of view.

It's one of those summer moments I know I'll remember.

We had arrived a few hours earlier to Hollyhock for a three-night getaway.

Away from the hustle and bustle of the city, Hollyhock is located on a remote road on Cortes Island - year-round population 1,000. Cortes is situated on the west side of Desolation Sound, known to most sailors and power boaters as a top west coast destination. Here warm waters, an abundance of marine life and a natural pristine coastline attract visitors from all around the world.

I was yearning for what a few friends who have gone to Hollyhock kept telling me: "If you like a simple rustic retreat that offers calm, tranquility and peace, Hollyhock is for you."

I felt some of my stress dissipate as soon as we reached the entrance.

We stayed in the Gingerbread Lodge up a little way from the main lodge. I slept like a baby that night. We were blanketed in darkness and the stillness of the woods.

That morning, we breakfasted with Seattle's Steve and Carter Case.

They told us they have been coming to Hollyhock for nearly a decade. On this, their sixth visit, they were taking part in a week-long photography course. Retired, the two professionals told me they fell in love with the serene atmosphere of the resort, as well as its programs and excellent organic, vegetarian cuisine.

By the end of our sojourn, I felt completely rejuvenated. Perhaps it's the property, or the cuisine or the massages; whatever "it" is, Hollyhock replenished body and soul.

For me, the "it" was being in the forest with the ocean steps away, the night's stillness and the simplicity of the property.

Hollyhock is as well known for its organic vegetarian cuisine as it is for its holistic programs.

Every morning, we listened for the ringing of the gong, which signified breakfast was on. And what a feast!

Although, Dennis kidded a couple of times about there being no meat, he soon acquired a palate for the vegetarian dishes that came out of this kitchen. A daily chalkboard let you know which herbs, vegetables and edible flowers were picked in the garden earlier that morning; all of which ended up

in the dishes served that day.

I can't talk about Hollyhock without a mention of the lush, abundant garden.

The staff grows more than 50 varieties of organic vegetables, herbs and flowers.

While we were here, the photography students spent endless hours capturing images of this magnificent garden.

Meanwhile, the next morning, we headed for Squirrel Cove on the east side of the island. The tide was out as we walked down the beach towards a group of fishermen harvesting oysters. They were kind enough to offer us a taste of raw oyster.

I politely declined, but I did ask one of them to show me how he shucked these very large oysters. It took some probing with a very sharp knife to get to the meat of the oyster.

Further along the beach was the First Nations' village of the Klahoose First Nations people. At its epicentre is a quaint century-old Catholic church. Two of the locals gave us a tour and told us, today, the church is only used for ceremonies such as weddings, births and deaths.

Later, as we walked back towards our car, Dennis caught sight of an old dug-out canoe that was carved from a single cedar tree. The couple told us the community all worked together to create this work of art.

Saturday night, I left Dennis behind and took part in the Misty Isles Adventures Bioluminescence nighttime kayak trip. From Hollyhock, we, all six of us females, drove a few minutes down the road to Manson's Lagoon to launch our kayaks.

At low tide, we push our kayaks into the ankle-deep water and with our guide seated at the front of our kayaks, we easily slid into our seats. I snapped my water "skirt" on to protect me from dripping paddles and wayward waves.

Escorted only by the sounds of our chatter, we followed the rocky shore line. As darkness descended, we watched as the bioluminescence began to illuminate our way. As I skimmed my hands in the water, it looked like fairy dust.

Bioluminescence is caused by the plankton (small ocean organisms that whales feed on) that blooms in the warm summer waters. Our guide told us how lucky we were to witness this phenomenon, since earlier in the week it wasn't possible to see because of a lack of sunshine.

On our last morning, we set out for Manson's Landing.

We got out of the car and we watched, captivated, as dozens of people were digging clams and collecting oysters on the inter-tidal beach. We then walked to the bay behind the government wharf. The water at high tide seemed to be trapped in the bay and slowly ran out forming a small and very warm stream. I watched a young man drag his kayak up the stream and then ride down with the current.

After a long, leisurely walk along the rocky beach, we returned to Hollyhock to the sound of drumming. Intrigued, we followed the sound into the woods. What a treat to find the path lined with oyster shells. At the end of the trail was Olatunji Hall, a large wooden building, where the drum group was taking part in a ceremonial welcome dance for the photography class.

Our last evening began with an oyster barbecue on the beach.

Just imagine, the ocean waves softly lapping on the beach, the sun is setting and the waft of fresh oysters barbecuing on the half shell filled our nostrils.

Then it was up the hill for our last healthy meal of the trip.

Hollyhock is all about providing bigcity clientele like us an escape from the everyday to the slow-paced charm of rural life.

IF YOU GO:

The price per night includes: three organic, vegetarian buffet meals daily, 24hour beverage/toast bar, naturalist guided walks and events, morning meditation/ yoga, use of ocean-view hot tubs, periodic evening performances and presentations, wireless Internet. Prices per adult range from a couple's room with private bath for $178 to a double tent (bring own tent, bedding and towels) for $83.

mhopkins@richmond-news.com