THE RACETRACK called Highway 99, the fume-ridden Massey Tunnel, racing across town to get to soccer practice and stuck in an eight-deep supermarket line-up with only three of 25 checkouts open.
One by one, the chips of the daily grind slid off the shoulders as my bare feet felt the tingle of the cool, golden wet sand of Cox Bay, Tofino.
Within five minutes, the monotony of the weekly routine had been swept aside by the majesty that is just about any beach in Tofino’s embarrassing array of coastal riches.
I challenge anyone to deliver a mile as glorious as Cox Bay, with its raw, thunderous Pacific Ocean waves — unbroken since departing the Sea of Japan — crashing onto the perfect, pancake-flat canvas of pristine sands, which bear a reflection of dramatic skies and the towering rainforest that yawns along the length of the beach.
Cox Bay, however, is anything but an only child on the rugged, yet serene, Vancouver Island west coast, with the Long Beach peninsula boasting an attractive extended family of beaches, such Mackenzie, north and south Chesterman, the wild Long Beach and Wickaninnish to name a few.
Surf and turf
“If you go to Tofino, you have to surf,” I was told. So, with the “you only live once” choir ringing in my left ear, I signed myself and son, Ben, 11, up for a surfing lesson at Cox Bay’s Long Beach Lodge, which has its own surf shop and instructors.
Within ten minutes, I was exhausted, gasping for air! So, with the wetsuit on for the first time in my life, I was ready for the lesson.
Apparently, the swell and rip at Cox Bay that afternoon was a too aggressive for our novice souls, so Garret, our teacher, drove us a few minutes north to Chesterman Beach.
Surfboards tucked under the arm, myself humming The Beach Boys’ Wipe Out, we marched, chests puffed (there was nowhere else for mine to go but up in the suit) across the shimmering, low-tide Chesterman sands towards some rather tall waves to our fate/lesson.
Lay flat on your belly, look for your wave, position to make sure you can see the logo on your board, then, in one fluid motion, slide up into a crouch, get your head up, stand up, feet square and you are “surfin’ USA.”
After 30 minutes, I was confident I’d perfected how to surf — on land. Now for the tricky part, made more enjoyable once Garret explained there were no sharks in these waters.
And once the pint or so of Pacific had snuck into the suit and warmed up, thanks to nervous body heat, I began to search for my wave, as Garret had suggested.
“Don’t rush it, feel the wave and let it take you first,” he coached, as wave after wave steam-rolled over my shoulders and sometimes head.
As I spat out the ocean’s salty receipt once more, I spotted one. “That looks a nice one,” let’s do that one, I thought. Paddling towards the beach for all my life, which was not at all fast, I felt the swell rush past my ears and I paused, for a second, two at the most, as my board and I accelerated to the speed of the surge.
Calling on every ounce of muscle/flab, I tried to haul myself upright. But it was too late. I didn’t lift my head and, inevitably, exited, stage right, much to the amusement of Ben, who, by this time, had managed to catch a wave, get upright and glide a glorious, ocean-propelled path to shore.
Over and over again I tried. For almost two hours. But to no avail. I was done. Nothing left to give. The energy well was dry.
Surfing was the single-most difficult, core-wrenching sport I’ve ever tried. It was also the most exhilarating and, you only live once, they say.
So, now you’ve tested the surf; why not hit the turf for some golf in the same day; the only place in the country where such a double-header can be pulled off. Unlikely allies, surfing and golf are two sports where you are truly “out on your own” and just a ten-minute drive south of the lodge is Long Beach Golf Course.
Slipping in, out and skirting around the magnificent, mature Pacific Rim National Park rainforest, the course is a devious little nine-holer, which appears tame enough until you’re tempted into “going for it” and then throw a tee shot slightly off-line. Good luck with that. Unlike many forgiving courses in the Lower Mainland, Long Beach will punish you on an off-day, while its receptive greens will reward the more cautious, accurate player, who prefers to think their way around a course.
Long Beach Golf Course has a varied events calendar from April to September and has Tofino’s only airstrip right behind it if you fancy flying in for the day for some “surf and turf.” They also have a new 18-hole mini golf for the kids and families.
More to dos
The Tofino area is a trail-walker’s dream, with no less than a dozen or so tracks to hike or stroll, most of which offer the prize at the end of a wonderful beach, secluded cove or magnificent view across the ocean. I recommend the Tonquin Trail out of Tofino village and the South Beach Trail, which leads to a beach where the shells and stones are, quite literally, music to the ears.
Tofino village itself, at the northern tip of the peninsula, needs to be explored. Picture a scene from the villages in Jaws and Free Willy, throw in some organic, family-run cafes and restaurants and a handful of organic local art studios and galleries, harbour crafts buzzing in and out of the docks and you won’t be far away from imagining Tofino. The village is every bit as charming as it says on the many tourist leaflets you’ll find on the ferry from the mainland. Grab a wee coffee or tea at Expresso with a View, overlooking the harbour. It has intoxicating, freshly-ground coffee and, you guessed it, a patio with a fantastic view.
And, of course, no visit to Tofino is complete without spending half a day whale-watching. There are several whale-watching outlets in the village, all of which “guarantee” a sighting of some sort, whether it’s orcas or greys or whatever your luck hands you that day. Although we didn’t partake this time, I have in the past and it’s well worth the expense, if you can afford it.
Long Beach Lodge offers a slightly different in-house experience, in that you will see incredible wildlife on its tour, without the relentless search of the “guaranteed” whale.
Dogs and Tofino
If Tofino is heaven to surfers and trail-walkers, then it’s paradise for the pooches.
Mile upon mile of either soft, powdery sand or the firm, wet variety will have your family pet, like our Hershey, in doggy dreamland, sprinting along the beach or dancing in the waves. Cox Bay and Chesterman Beach were our two favourites for the mutt, but it really is perm any one of ten; they’re all fantastic for the furrball.
All the trails are also pet-friendly, as long as the dog is on the leash. In fact, there are very few activities or places to explore in Tofino where your pet can’t be with you.
Where to stay?
As mentioned earlier, we stayed at the Long Beach Lodge on the magnificent Cox Bay, not least due its true “pet-friendly” nametag.
The lodge goes out of its way to make your dog feel right at home and part of the experience, providing a personalized welcome letter, bowls and towels, all for the dog during its stay.
There are sea view rooms and suites in the main lodge, while the pet-friendly “rainforest cottages” nestle in behind, less than a two-minute walk to the beach.
The cottages are, as the name suggests, surrounded by an enchanting rainforest and each cozy cottage, which vary in size, has its own hot tub outside, heated, slate bathroom floors inside, along with a fireplace lounge and a fully-functioning kitchen. With the cottages, what you lose in the sea view, you gain in home comfort and space.
Long Beach Lodge also benefits from having its very own surf shop with outdoor hot-tub and in-house surfing instructors. And, coming this summer, the lodge will be home to Tofino’s only beachside bistro, called the SandBar, which promises to be the a magnet for surfers on Cox Bay and for anyone on the beach, for that matter.
As for eating options at the lodge, if you’re not dining in your cottage or barbecuing at the communal outdoor grill (gas is on and ready to burn, so to speak) then the Great Room should be an option for at least one breakfast, lunch or dinner. Why not bookend one day with a breakfast just after sunrise and a dinner at sunset while your eyes feast over the Great Room’s spectacular Cox Bay views.
Eating out
Tofino has a plethora of cracking places to eat, a list too long too long to mention here.
But I have to put a good word in for the Wildside Grill and Tacofino, both in the Live to Surf complex a couple of kilometres south of the village. Take-out or park your bum at their picnic benches, Wildside actually catches its own fish and you can taste the difference. We did take-out, twice, one time taking it down to the beach to watch the sunset.
At Tacofino, I had the audacity to mumble to myself about the portion size when they handed me their tender beef special. When I tasted it, I apologized, again to myself. The aforementioned Great Room at Long Beach Lodge is worthy of a second shout, not least for the incredible views.
Getting there
BC Ferries runs several sailings daily from Tsawwassen and Horseshoe Bay to Nanaimo. From Nanaimo, it’s about a three-hour drive across Vancouver Island to Tofino. Stop for gas or a stretch in Port Alberni.
If you go
Long Beach Lodge: A pet-friendly rainforest cottage at Long Beach Lodge starts at around $400 per night, plus a $50 per stay pet fee. www.longbeachlodgeresort.com
Long Beach Golf Course: Rates start as low as $24 and you can rent the latest clubs so you don’t have to pack your own. www.longbeachgolfcourse.com
