A BRAZEN south-westerly gust whistles over your naked cheeks as you peer down the 75-foot drop to the unforgiving Pacific Ocean.
A salty spray from the sea flicks up, coating your lips as the waves relentlessly pound the jagged rock formations which serve as the last line of defense for one of Canada’s finest landmarks.
Welcome to the noble Fisgard Lighthouse, the first of its kind ever built on the country’s raw and historically-laden west coast.
Protecting Esquimalt Harbour on Victoria’s western boundary since 1860, Fisgard was built by the British before Vancouver Island even became part of Canada.
Now a national historic site, the lighthouse, just a 20-minute drive from the city centre, is one of many “firsts” in Victoria, which is also home to Canada’s oldest Chinatown – and the second oldest in North America - tucked away on the appropriately named Fisgard Street.
Blink and you may miss it; such is its size, or lack thereof. But what it lacks in square footage, it makes up for in character, with its wonderfully-named Fan Tan Alley, Canada’s narrowest street at eight-feet wide!
Then there’s B.C.’s oldest bakery, Willie’s, on Johnson Street, also downtown. Nestled inside one of the city’s many heritage buildings, the 127-year-old eatery serves great breakfasts, but don’t leave it too late in the day to sample their amazing home-made pastries or you might miss out, as we did.
And while we’re still dining out at Victoria’s historical table, a visit to Craigdarroch Castle and Fort Rodd Hill should be on the menu. Built in 1890 by B.C.’s wealthiest man of the day - coal baron Robert Dunsmuir (although he never got to see the finished article, having died in 1889) – Craigdarroch Castle, five minutes from the city centre, has been painstakingly restored inside and out to speak of the lifestyle of the rich of the time.
Last, but not least, on your historical hit-list should be the artillery fortifications at Fort Rodd Hill, carved out of the hillside overlooking the aforementioned Fisgard Lighthouse.
If you’re fascinated by military history, like myself and my son, Ben, then you’ll want to camp out at Ford Rodd, which provided artillery defences for Victoria and the naval harbour at Esquimalt from 1878 to 1856.
We spent almost three hours wandering around the fort – massive gun batteries, search light engine rooms and soldiers’ quarters – many of which are original structures, with minimal restoration. My advice: Take a picnic and spend the whole day at Fort Rodd and Fisgard, which also boasts a rustic beach with crashing waves. *Point to note: no dogs allowed at Fort Rodd or Fisgard.
MORE TO DOS
Fisherman’s Wharf, ensconced at the far end of Victoria’s Inner Harbour, is a quaint, off-the-wall magnet for visitors to the city. It’s a 15-minute walk from the city centre or the five-minute pug across the harbour on a water taxi.
The wharf is home to a clutch of charming, rainbow-coloured floating residences and the floating Fish Store, which gets its catch delivered straight to its location, with no landfall. There’s also a floating ice-cream parlour and a floating BBQ, which, would you believe, has a kiosk window for kayakers!
And you can buy little raw fish from The Fish Store to feed the resident harbour seals, which come right up to the dockside and take the fish from your hand. One got so close, it stared out our dog, Hershey – herself a weird-looking part Daschund/Scots terrier. I’m confident Hershey hadn’t seen a seal before, but I’m certain the seal hadn’t seen anything like Hershey.
Beacon Hill Park – Victoria’s answer to Stanley Park (or is it the other way around?) – proudly perched atop the city’s southern side, should play a part in your visit, probably of a sunny afternoon.
Full of playparks, waterparks, petting zoo, picnic areas, rows upon rows of masterful and character trees and, not least, the world’s tallest, free-standing totem pole (carved from a single log), Beacon Hill, if you pardon the cliché, does have something for everyone.
You should take the short hike/stroll to the Beacon Hill point itself, which has stunning panoramic views across the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
If you have a dog, however, make sure it’s on the leash, as the roaming resident peacocks don’t like our four-legged friends, funnily enough.
YOUR DOG
Talking of the mutts, ours, the aforementioned Hershey (aka Donkey from Shrek), is very much part of the family and before we decide on vacation destinations, her enjoyment is very much a factor.
For us, the likes of off-leash parks and especially beaches, has to be within walking or a short drive away.
So we were very excited to see our pet-friendly hotel, The Oswego, had supplied us, without asking, a “Dog Walking Guide,” with a detailed list, and map, of where to go in the immediate vicinity and what to expect.
Many hotels, resorts claim to be pet-friendly and live up to it to a certain extent. But the guide was such a simple, yet ingenious, touch. Well done.
The best spot on the guide was at the Ogden Point breakwater, about a 15-minute powerwalk from the hotel. Ogden offers a sandy, off-leash beach with, again, picture-postcard views across the ocean to the south.
If your dog likes to feel the compact, wet sand under its paws like Hershey does, then you’ll find Ogden to your liking. And when he or she has had enough, pop them back on-leash and dry them off with a walk along the breakwater itself, which stretches about half a mile out into the ocean. Watch out for the seals and dolphins as you venture out.
Still on the off-leash trail, but a bit further out (15-minute drive), is the beautiful district of Oak Bay, where the glorious stretch of white sand and clear waters of Willows Beach awaits you and your dog.
Washed-up and weather-beaten logs afforded a resting place and views of Discovery Island and Mount Baker, while our son, Ben, and Hershey skipped around the water’s edge throwing sticks into the ocean which were, on occasion, retrieved when Hershey felt like it.
TO EAT
If you adore fish & chips, as we do, then you can’t go wrong with Barb’s at Fisherman’s Wharf; freshly-fried, light, crispy, well worth the ten-minute wait.
Ferris Oyster Bar & Grill on Yates Street in downtown Victoria was buzzing on a Monday lunchtime when we went. After the meal, I could see why. My glorious home-made burger, half of which I’d normally take away for a future meal, had to be finished. Earthy, bare-brick walls also lend Ferris a non-tourist trap feel.
Spinnaker’s family-friendly gastro brewpub, over the bridge on Catherine Street (five minute drive from city centre), doesn’t just brew its own beers, it makes its own malt vinegar as well! A mixture of hearty, down-to-earth menu items and some more delicate entrees, make sure you slip Spinnaker’s onto you itinerary somewhere.
The Oswego bistro, on Oswego Street, is on the ground floor of the boutique hotel of the same name, tucked just off the beaten tourist track, a few hundred yards south-west of the Legislature.
If you’re lucky enough to be there on a Wednesday, you can catch some live jazz to blend along with some adorable and skillfully crafted dishes and cocktails in some very soft, candlelit surroundings.
TO STAY
As previously mentioned, where we go, the mutt goes and a true, pet-friendly base to explore the area is a must. The Oswego Hotel fitted that bill and then some. Not only does the staff ask for and remember your dog’s name, I don’t recall one guest recoiling in horror or screwing up their faces when greeted with Hershey in the elevator – which is unusual, given the weird-looking creature she is.
The hotel is modern, contemporary to the eye, but retains a family-run feel which helped us relax that little bit quicker, feeling right at home on day one. We stayed in a clean-lined, well furnished, sixth-floor, one-bedroomed suite, which had a fully-functioning kitchen, a balcony and floor-ceiling windows with vistas across the downtown Victoria skyline and the Legislature, which lit up at night.
GETTING THERE
You can fly via seaplane, straight into Victoria Harbour, which would be the quickest route. But, for us at least, the adventure of getting there is a vital ingredient to the recipe of any good family vacation, so taking the near two-hour BC Ferries sail from Tsawwassen to Schwartz Bay is fine by us. It also allows you time to fine-tune your trip some more while keeping the eyes peeled for dolphins and orcas.
IF YOU GO
*Tourism Victoria’s website has everything you need to know for planning your trip to the provincial capital: www.tourismvictoria.com
*The Oswego Hotel: One-bedroomed suite starts at $175 per night (weekend): www.oswegovictoria.com
*BC Ferries sails to Victoria’s Schwartz Bay from Tsawwassen several times a day, every day. Check sailing times at www.bcferries.com
