Life's a beach — and then you cry!

Gently aroused in the early-hours from a nocturnal slumber by the stormy ballad of the Pacific Ocean folding relentlessly onto Cox Bay, a self-satisfied smile migrated across my face as I nestled back into my soft pillow.

Within a few seconds, that smug grin had been erased, as realization dawned that it was Monday morning, at home, and the wave concerto was, in fact, the disturbing din of drivers hitting the gas en route to work.

Don’t get me wrong, it wasn’t all nightmare. Forty-eight hours earlier I had, in sweet reality, been politely woken by the sounds of a late storm season rippling through the slightly ajar patio door of my luxury Pacific Sands beach house, slap bang on the aforementioned Cox Bay in Tofino.

But when the dream is snatched away from you in an instant, the sour taste had me wrestling between laughing or crying myself back to sleep.

The glorious crescent of Cox Bay, on the rugged west coast of Vancouver Island, with its booming surf, dramatic skies, gleaming sand and magnificent rainforest, is but one of a plethora of breathtaking beaches peppered up and down the Tofino peninsula.

Long Beach, world famous for its surfing, Wickaninnish, MacKenzie and South and North Chestermans, which is spectacular when the tide goes out, leaving a wide strip of golden sand leading to the rocky delights of Frank Island.

The list unravels so far that the most difficult task you’ll perform of a day is agonizing over which beaches to explore before your time is up.

And if you have a dog, it will love the vast, open stretches of firmly-packed, wet sand to perform endless donuts and miles of sumptuous surf to dance in and out of.

Luxurious view

Talking of pets and luxury, the very dog-friendly, 41-acre Pacific Sands Beach Resort, on the cusp of the Pacific Rim National Park and just seven kilometers south of the village, is the perfect place to set up base to experience Tofino with your family.

If pooch has been using the surf and sand, you can wash them at one of the many hosing-down stations as you come off the beach and pet towels are provided, as are bowls.

Stunning ocean views are afforded by every accommodation, whether it be a studio with private hot tub, a one-bedroomed suite or a luxuriously-fitted, three-level, two-bedroomed beach house, complete with fully-equipped gourmet kitchen, heated slate floors and floor-to-ceiling, beach-facing windows. (The master bedroom has a raised bathtub, just in case you miss the view)

Our 1,400 sq. ft. beach house had a flat-screen TV in most rooms, but they were rarely switched on. The best viewing was from an armchair, sofa or king-sized bed, looking out onto Cox Bay and catching the real-life drama of surfers at play.

Trust me, you will NOT want to leave when the time comes. There is nothing better than waking up in the morning to the sound of the Pacific Ocean, opening your eyes to see it crashing onto the beach, making a fresh cup of coffee and taking the dog for a walk along the edge of the surf as it sprays your face.

Off the beaten track, there’s a whole host of amazing forested trails and easy hikes in the area, most with more breathtaking ocean views as a reward at the end.

The resort itself, one of the most popular in Tofino, has invested quite a bit over the last few years, modernizing fixtures and fittings in its accommodations and, according to resort director Stephen Peters, has paid particular attention to the comfort detail.

As well as an espresso bar at guest services, Pacific Sands has its own beachside gazebo, with wood-burning fire for barbecuing and marshmallows all year round and there’s spring break and summer programming for kids if you need.

Surfin’ the rain

On a wet and windy March morning, standing in Chestermans Beach parking lot, dressed in a way-too-tight-fitting wetsuit, I looked every inch a fish out of water as I waited to be handed my learner’s surfboard from Surf Sisters’ owner/instructor Krissy Montgomery.

And as the rain battered sideways across the only exposed part of my body — my face — one began to question one’s sanity and motivation.

Let’s be clear, I’m about as comfortable in the water as Chief Brodie in Jaws. I was doing this for my son, Ben, who was desperate to try another surfing lesson after his interest being piqued the year before.

Less than half an hour later, however — having gone through our safety checks at Surf Sisters’ HQ in town and “perfected” the art of “popping up” on the board while on Chestermans’ sand — it was tally ho and in we go!

You will be surprised to learn that a surfing specific wetsuit is actually warm in March (water seeps in and heats up from your body), as long as you keep moving.

There was certainly plenty of moving on my part, mostly on a downward trajectory and headfirst. And if you can call 1.15 seconds of almost standing up on the board — then I can surf.

Despite the valiant and very patient efforts of Krissy and fellow Surf Sisters’ instructor Carly, that was the nearest I got to riding a wave ashore as our group wrestled the forgiving waves in the shallows of North Chestermans.

But it was only one lesson and just as my brain was getting the hang of it, the body was laughing right back.

Of course, my 12-year-old son had long ridden his third or fourth wave into shore by the time I’d spat out my fourth litre of Pacific Ocean, but hey ho, it’s an exhilarating experience that I intend to repeat in the future.

Drink up, eat up

Once you’ve peeled out of your wetsuit, I’d recommend a little jaunt back into town to the Tofino Brewing Company.

A microbrewery nestled in a small industrial estate just south of Tofino village, this little gem has its own bar right next to where the beer is brewed, with very reasonable prices for some very local sourced and refreshing beers.

As well as famous beaches, Tofino has no shortage of wonderful places to eat.

But I only had time to sample one or two and I’d be derelict in my duty if I didn’t shove you in the direction of Shelter.

The line-up for a table extending outside on a wet Wednesday night tells its own story about this exquisite eatery in the village that oozes ambience.

A crab shack back in the day, Shelter has been transformed into a relaxed, fine dining restaurant without the pretence of many you’d find in Downtown Vancouver and its food and staff are much more accessible and approachable, as well.

A feature I found astounding was sous chef Robbie Elliot taking time out in the heat of service to not just say hi to diners, but actually engage in conversation and even express his culinary love by rustling up a special, off-piste appetizer for his guests.

And for the first time in more than a decade the serving staff waited until EVERYONE at the table was finished before offering to clear the plates. Nice one, Shelter.

Close by, another top local spot is the “Wolf,” as it’s known locally, or Wolf in the Fog if you’re a city slicker like me.

Another place that had them queuing out the door, on a Thursday lunch, the Wolf offers traditional daytime favourites with a modern twist in its informal downstairs, with a finer dining, freshly-caught seafood feel upstairs.

They play music via vinyl on a turntable and make their coffee from a special, traditional Italian machine, one of only 100 in the world (the Pope has the first).

Tofino