If you think this column is going to focus on Malbecs from Argentina, you’d be wrong. Malbec is the major red grape for the Argentine wine industry, so your guess is good one, except it’s incorrect.
Today we’re going to Cahors in southwestern France. A group of talented young winemakers are re-energizing this region’s most renowned varietal, Malbec. Using sustainable farming practices and innovative winemaking techniques, they are producing Cahors wines with freshness, balance and finesse, a radical departure from the traditional austere Cahors.
One of those winemakers is Sebastion Dauliac, a fifth generation winemaker on his vineyard. Although Cahors must have 70 per cent Malbec and up to 30 per cent Merlot and/or Tannat, Dauliac’s 2012 Domaine Capelanel Amphût ($42.99) is 100 per cent Malbec from old vines, the oldest being 70 years.
The Amphût’s name is derived from amphora and fût, which is French for cask. It’s made from wild yeasts and is a blend of wine aged in amphora and hand-made Austrian Stockinger oak barrels. The result is a mature wine with depths of flavour of smooth fruit and terroir.
The BCLS website describes the Amphût as having “a concentrated nose, perfumed and complex. On the palate, it is vibrant with driving acidity, very fine tannins and a beautiful, lingering finish.”
Based on 39 reviews, it received a 4.9 out of five rating, five being awesome! Available at the BCLS at Richmond Ironwood and Brighouse. Serve with charcuterie, pizza, or grilled meats.
Another modern Malbec from Cahors is the Chateau Les Croisille 2014 Calcaire ($32.99). Grown on calcaire (limestone soil), the 35 year old vines are organically farmed by the Croisille family. Going organic is the “secret” to producing revolutionary Malbecs.
I loved the Calcaire’s deep red colour and its gorgeous bouquet of violets and dark berries. Also impressive were the flavours of raspberry and blackberries with nuances of spice and vanilla. The balanced acidity, the smooth tannins and the lingering cherry finish were the hallmarks of this elegant refreshing red.
On the liquor board website, 35 consumers gave it a five out of five rating. It’s available at the BCLS at Cambie and 39th in Vancouver. Enjoy with country paté, duck confit or tacos.
Eric Hanson is a Richmond wine educator
Ehanson0705@gmail.com
