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Column: Wines for "hamming" it up at Christmas

After turkey, the most popular dish served at Christmas dinner is ham. There are basically three styles of hams, although many are a combination of that trio.
Ham wine
Two tasty wines to go with the Holiday Ham this Christmas.

After turkey, the most popular dish served at Christmas dinner is ham. There are basically three styles of hams, although many are a combination of that trio. That means there are plenty choices of wines that will match the variety of tastes that ham offers. Basically you want wines that have a kiss of sweetness and a big hug of acidity with bold fruit.

Dry cured, aged hams are thinly sliced, bold flavored hams with a chewy texture and a high salt content, such as Italian Prosciutto and Spanish Serrano and Iberico. Sparkling wine will put you in a festive and celebratory mood, while cleansing the palate after the meaty and salty flavours.

My suggestions for sparklers include: Louis Roederer Brut Premier (Champagne $68.99), Mumm Napa Brut Prestige, California ($26.49), Segura Viudas Brut, Spain ($15.49) and Stellar’s Jay Brut, BC ($23.49).

If you want to add some colour to the bubbles, there’s Cono Sur Brut Rosé, Chile ($15.99), Thomas Goss Sparkling Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia ($23.99), and Lambrusco Reggiano, Italy ($19.99).

Or you could match prosciutto with a tasty table wine such as Masi 2015 Campofiorin Ripasso, Italy ($20.99) or the Spanish dry hams with a dry sherry: Tio Pepe Fino, Spain ($27.99).

A second category is savoury and smokey ham. These range from full-sized fresh hams you can bake to sliced deli ham. Non-glazed ham, black forest ham, ham hocks, Mortadella and even Spam belong in this group.  Because they’re juicier and not as salty as the dry-cured style, they go well with light reds.

New World Pinot Noirs from BC, Oregon, California, New Zealand, and Australia are recommended. Look for BC’s Moraine Pinot Noir ($26) and Tantalus 2017 Pinot Noir (30.44), California’s Meiomi 2017 Pinot Noir ($21.99), New Zealand’s Marisco “The Ned” (19.49), and Cold Stream Hills 2018 Yarra Valley Pinot Noir ($26.99)

Grenache-based reds from France and Australia are also popular choices that match this style of ham. Cotes du Rhone 2017 Halo de Jupiter ($23.99) is an 80: 20 Grenache: Syrah blend. From Australia’s famous Barossa Valley comes Yalumba 2015 The StrapperGSM ($24.99), which is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre.

If Zins sound appealing with their ample fruit spice and smooth tannins, pick Ravenswood Old Vine 2016 Zinfandel, California, ($22.99) or Rodney Strong 2016 Sonoma Knotty Vines ($23.99).

Sweet and salty ham is our last category. They have a chewy texture and a sweet flavour. Examples include honey-baked ham, glazed hams, back bacon, and char siu (Chinese barbecued pork). If the ham is at the low end of the sweetness scale, then an off-dry wine will work. B.C.’s 2018 Time Riesling ($24.99), Summerhill 2017 Vineyard Riesling ($28), as well as Germany’s Dr. Loosen Riesling, Germany ($17.99) are favourites of mine.

If the ham is sweeter, then a sweeter wine like a Moscato or a White Port would pair well. Look for Ruffino Moscato d’Asti, Italy ($14.99) or Taylor’s Fladgate Fine White Port ($17.99).

Now you’ve got lots of wines to accompany your Christmas ham!