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Column: How to choose a Champagne for celebrating New Year’s Eve

Faced with dozens of bottles of champagne on liquor store shelves, you might be tempted to close your eyes and blindly reach for any bottle. May I suggest there is a better way.
champagne
Eric shares a plan on how to choose a champagne that suits your tastes.

Faced with dozens of bottles of champagne on liquor store shelves, you might be tempted to close your eyes and blindly reach for any bottle. May I suggest there is a better way.

If your budget can afford the original and best sparkling wine, then let me tell you a painless way to choose a champagne. Do what most champagne lovers do. Pick a brut.

All champagnes are made in the Champagne region of France. By far the vast majority are brut (dry). Furthermore, they are blends of different vintages of one or more grape varieties: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay.

If you love a wine that is complex, rich, and nutty then Veuve Cliquot ($72.99) is an excellent choice. Named after the Grande Dame of Champagne, Veuve (widow in French) Cliquot honours Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin. As a young widow, she made her Cliquot a powerhouse in the 19th century.

Over 50 to 60 different Crus go into the blend guaranteeing premium consistency year to year. The cuvee is 50-per-cent red Pinot Noir which provides the structure and complexity, 30-per-cent white Chardonnay which adds elegance and finesse, and 20-per-cent red Pinot Meunier to add fruitiness and crisp acidity.

Expect a golden-yellow hue with lacy bubbles, aromas of honey-crisp apple, pear, cherry, vanilla, and toast, with a lively minerally flavour. Enjoy as aperitif as well as a partner to a first course.

If you are a royal watcher or admire Winston Churchill, then reach for Pol Roger Brut Reserve ($69.99). Prince Harry and Meghan Markle served it at their wedding in 2018, and it was the only champagne Churchill drank. For his loyalty, Pol Roger created special vintage champagne in his honour: Cuvée Winston Churchill.

Compared to Veuve Cliquot, Pol Roger is lighter and fresher and more aromatic, and is made of equal parts of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. Because it has less Pinot Noir, it isn’t as heavy. And because it is aged in stainless steel instead of oak, it is more fresh and more aromatic unlike the toastier Veuve Cliquot.

Decanter Magazine gave it a 91 point rating: “Pol is always a great Champagne to serve to your guests: a classy, balanced expression of the three grape varieties allowed by law. It has plenty of rich apple fruit along with a streak of lemon zest and just a hint of juicy tangerine. The palate is round but fresh, and has a long, steely finish which leaves you wanting another sip.”

One of my favourite bruts is Louis Roederer Brut Premier ($68.99). It is described as rich and bready so if you like Veuve Cliquot, you would probably enjoy Roederer.

The Liquor Control Board of Ontario has a similar opinion of Roederer. “Possibly the greatest value for non-vintage Champagne on the planet, this is a simply stunning fizz featuring aromas of pear, smoke, spice, herbs and dried flowers. Perfect with grilled salmon, stuffed pork tenderloin or even popcorn (seriously!).”

If you want a wine similar to Pol Roger, go for the Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut ($65.99). Wine Spectator gives this light-bodied bubbly 90 Points: "A fresh and elegant Champagne, with the delicate mousse imparting a soft creaminess to the finely knit flavors of poached apricot, toast, lemon preserves and spun honey. Smoke-tinged finish. Drink now through 2021."

To your health and a clear vision in 2020 Happy New Year!