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Sips Happen column: Brew selection at Pumphouse Pub a ‘crafty’ way to travel

I f you can’t afford to fly to Maui this winter, you can experience the taste of the garden isle by going to the Pumphouse Taproom on Blundell at No. 2 Road.
Eric Hanson
Eric Hanson

If you can’t afford to fly to Maui this winter, you can experience the taste of the garden isle by going to the Pumphouse Taproom on Blundell at No. 2 Road.

 Last week during a rainstorm, I travelled to the local pub to talk to bar manager and long-time Richmond resident, Kelly Abrams. I asked her why craft beer is so popular in Richmond.  

“People are developing a palate to try new and different things. It’s for everyone.” Abrams said.

“When you’re a wine snob, you would pooh-pooh someone who put ice in red wine. Says who?” Abrams asked. “I think you’re supposed to drink what you like and how you like it.”

With that advice, Abrams poured me four taster glasses from the dozen or so craft beers which rotate regularly.

“I’ve chosen three of them from the Maui Brewing Company. They’re interesting, they’re different.”

I was intrigued by this upcoming adventure!

First up, a Kihei Kolsch, $6.50 for a 16-ounce sleeve. This is a light, crisp, and flavourful offering. Originally from Koln (Cologne), Germany, it tastes like a German lager or Czech Pilsener.

“Very light and drinkable. And even non-beer drinkers can drink it,” claimed Abrams.

A perfect brew to sip on your Maui lanai watching the surf in Kihei!  

Next in the tasting was a Mana Wheat Ale, $6.50 for a sleeve. It’s unfiltered, a crisp wheat bear infused with Maui gold pineapple.

I normally dislike flavoured beers, but this Hawaiian brew really appealed to me. All of a sudden the rainy Richmond weather seemed tropical and balmy.

Overall, the mana wheat has a dry finish despite the tropical fruit, and a good body thanks to the wheat. Abrams recommended serving it with fish, chicken, or havarti cheese. Don’t forget to put on a good selection of ukulele music to accompany it.

From Hawaii, we return to lotus land with one of Kelly’s favourites: Parallel 49 Filthy Dirty IPA ($6 a sleeve). Despite its grubby name, this local India Pale Ale is clear and clean, with a hoppy aroma and hints of citrus and pine on the nose and a tasty malt flavour along with the flowery hops.

Abrams recommended that you enjoy the Filthy Dirty with a good burger, “a five-napkin burger.” 

Filthy Dirty and messy napkins. I see the connection. You can savour the IPA with one of Pumphouse’s delicious homemade burgers.

To end my crafty beer tasting, we travelled back to aloha land and sampled the Coconut Porter.

Abrams explained, “A porter is not a stout, it’s not an ale, it’s somewhere in between.”

I enjoyed its dark and smooth character with a rich malted chocolate and coffee flavor. 

Because it’s made from toasted coconut, the Maui Porter ends on a coconut finish. Abrams describes it further as being” dry but with low alcohol. It has the same calories as a Coors Lite!

And there’s much less carbon dioxide so you don’t feel full.

She recommended sipping it with a lava cake which is a favourite on the Pumphouse’s menu.

I asked Abrams why she enjoyed working at the Pumphouse’s bar, besides the dozen or more craft beers available. Her answer was instantaneous.

“My customers. I love them,” she said. “Because I’ve lived in Richmond and worked in Richmond, I’ve known them all for years. I’ve known some for three generations. I’m not only invited to their weddings, I’m invited to their christenings and wakes.

“I still get my vice principal and my Grade 7 teacher coming here.” she proudly boasted. 

Despite the drastic development that our city continues to suffer from, it’s comforting to know that Richmond still has a place where tradition is celebrated.

Eric Hanson is a retired Richmond teacher and local wine expert.