Today, I explore the wine delights of a small Osoyoos winery with an unusual name, Moon Curser Vineyards .
This is a family owned winery with Chris Tolley farming and making the wine and his wife, Beata, doing the business end of things.
It’s located in the hottest and driest wine region in B.C., and qualifies as Canada’s only desert.
Opened in 2004 as Twisted Tree, the Tolleys later decided to change their identity to Moon Curser to reflect on their renegade choice of grapes planted and to evoke the colourful stories of the regions past.
During the gold rush, many American miners would smuggle the Canadian gold across the border on moonless nights. Obviously, they would curse when the moon lit up their clandestine activities.
One of my favourite whites is their 2014 Afraid of the Dark ($21.90). This is a Rhone-style white, not common in the Okanagan. It has a trio of three grapes in the blend: Roussanne, Viognier and Marsanne.
As you might expect with a wine called Afraid of the Dark, it has a sunny disposition. A fruity unoaked white, it enjoys an aroma of grapefruit, nectarine. On the palate savour its ginger and citrus flavour.
Another unique white is the 2014 Arneis ($25.90) which has been rescued from extinction. Arneis means “little rascal” in it’s home in Piedmont because it was a challenging grape to grow. But at Moon Curser they are making delicious wine from it. Expect a floral personality enhanced with pear, tangerine and apple along with honey and almonds and a firm texture and dry finish.
If you fancy a red, uncork the Moon Curser 2013 Syrah ($26.90). The grapes are grown in three Osoyoos East Bench Vineyards and aged in small barriques made of New French and Eastern European Barrels. It has the characteristic black pepper character that French Syrah’s enjoy.
There are also ripe black cherries and other dark fruit integrated with the oak immersed in a smooth medium body
Another favourite of mine is the 2013 Border Vines ($26.90). This is a Bordeaux blend with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon being the main ingredients. Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Carmenere complete the cuvée.
As you might expect from having five varietals blended together, this is a complex wine with layers of scents and flavours. Delicious cherry, blackberry, and cassis greet your nose and palate along with cedar, tea leaves, and chocolate, thanks to the Carmenere. Smooth and ready to drink, but will age for at least five years.
They also have a Cabernet Merlot blend plus single varietals of Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Carmenere. You could open these and blend away with various amounts of each to create your own unique Bordeaux blend. How is that for hosting a wine party with friends?
Visit Moon Curser’s website (mooncurser.com) to find out about their wine club and how to order their wines if you aren’t planning a visit to Osoyoos in the near future.
Eric Hanson is a retired Richmond teacher and local wine expert
