The common wisdom for choosing drinks to match Indian cuisine is pick fruity white wine, beer or lassis. But not red wine!
After a media luncheon at Vij’s on Cambie Street, I realize that some Italian reds (Valpolicellas) are fantastic with curries. Valpolicellas originate in the Veneto region of northern Italy. Made from three indigenous red grapes, there are three levels of wine: the basic Valpolicella, the Ripasso and the highest grade, Amarone.
The luncheon began with a Novaia 2016 Valpolicella with pakoras, cauliflower and spinach fried in a chickpea batter. Novaia is a light red, much like a Beaujolais with a sour cherry nose, and flavour of blue and red fruits with crisp acidity and smooth moderate tannins. Best served chilled for half an hour, it’s delicious, especially with fried food which demands a refreshing drink.
Up next, a Zonin Valpolicella 2015 Ripasso to go with charred portobello and porcini green curry with coconut, basmati rice and naan bread. Ripassos are a hybrid between the lighter Valpolicella and the richer Amarone where the lighter wine is steeped on the skins of the Amarone.
The result, an elevated Ripasso with a perfume of red fruits, notes of vanilla, a heavier structure and longevity. This bold Zonin had some spicy and savoury flavours, which went well with the heat of the curry and the umami of the charred mushrooms.
Wine number three was also served with the mushroom curry, an aged Bottega Valpolicella Ripasso from 2012. With a bouquet of raisins and cherry, it was a richer wine with more terroir than the Zonin. The Bottega’s earthiness resulted in a better match with the mushroom green curry.
Next I enjoyed the 2013 Santi Amarone “Santico”. Amarones are often called “meditation wines,” wines to sip and contemplate. Because they are produced from semi-dried grapes with much less juice but more flavour, they are more expensive than Valpolicellas or Ripassos, often double the price!
The Santi Amarone displayed a chestnut colour, dried fruit with plenty of savoury flavours, full of depth and a long finish. It was served with Vij’s grilled chicken in yogurt coconut curry and lamb popsicles in fenugreek cream curry.
I also tasted the Sartori di Verona 2012 Amarone. It was richer than the Santi with a longer finish and a herbal character. The lamb’s cream curry had spinach and mustard, which made a perfect marriage with the Sartori’s herbal personality.
On the other hand, the Santi with its savoury character went better with the grilled chicken and coconut curry.
The final wine of the luncheon was the 2007 Valentina Cubi “Morar.” This was an excellent vintage and this wine was exceptional, like a vintage port with hints of chocolate. Although it was served with an exotic dessert, gulab jamun in cardamom syrup, the two didn’t get along. Desserts are often problematic for wines. Sometimes, you only pair Amarones with cheese and company.
Only the Zonin Ripasso from the tasting is at government stores, but there are many other brands of Ripassos and Amarones to enjoy.
Eric Hanson is a retired Richmond teacher and a fan of Italian wines and Indian cuisine.
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